Louise Cooney talks to Dr Katherine Mulrooney about how to care for your skin in 20s and 30s.

We all know it’s important to look after our skin in our 20s and 30s, but sometimes it can be hard to know where to start. I get a lot of questions about my skincare routine, and wanted to share some useful skincare advice with my followers, from an expert in this area. I decided to interview Cosmetic Dermatologist Dr Katherine Mulrooney, who is a medical doctor specialising in the treatment of ageing skin at the renowned Dr Mulrooney Clinic in Dublin 4. I asked her all the most common questions I have received about looking after your skin in your 20s and 30s.  I hope you find her advice useful – I certainly did! - Louise Cooney

How Do You Figure Out Your Skin Type?

Dr Mulrooney:  Use the ‘blotting paper method’ – simply press some blotting paper on clean skin ideally around midday, hold it up to the light and see how much oil has been absorbed on to the paper. Results correlate with the 5 main skin types;

1. Normal
2. Dry & dehydrated
3. Sensitive
4. Combination
5. Oily & acne prone

• No oil = dry & dehydrated, or sensitive skin

• Minimal oil = normal skin.

• Noticeable oil on T-Zone = combination skin

• A lot of oil all over = oily skin Knowing your skin type is key to choosing optimal skincare. If your skin is combination or oily choose a foaming cleanser, lightweight and oil free moisturisers and SPFs. If on the other hand your skin is dry, dehydrated or sensitive, try a gentler milk or cream cleanser, nourishing moisturiser and SPFs.

Louise: My skin type is combination. I tend to get oily around my T-zone so I definitely try and keep oily products away from that area. An oil-free, lightweight SPF is key for me. Also when applying my make-up that’s generally the only area I’ll add powder to now, as it allows the rest of my skin to shine through and prevents that area from becoming oily throughout the day.

When Setting Up a Regular Skincare Routine in Your 20s, What Do You Recommend?

Dr Mulrooney: In your 20s, a good morning and evening cleansing regime is the cornerstone to a good skincare regime. Fluctuating hormones result in a lot of oil production, which in turn attracts dust and dirt from the environment. Failure to remove it can cause congestion and may progress to outbreaks. Choose oil-free SPFs that don’t block the pores and be mindful that false tans can block pores too. Diet and lifestyle are key to a healthy mind and body, and good choices reflect in your skin. Be sun smart, do not smoke, get eight hours of good quality sleep every night, try to manage stress. Aim to eat a balanced diet with 2 litres of water a day. Exercise without make-up to help detox the skin.

Louise: I’ve always been interested in skincare products so have been trying everything and anything since my teens, at which point I was prone to breakouts. In my 20s I tried to refine what I was using, cleanse morning and night, use moisturiser and SPF each day and hyaluronic acid when my skin feels a little dry. I also take two capsules of Cleanmarine For Women every morning, which contains vitamin B2 and contributes to the maintenance of normal skin. I find when I’m taking them consistently, along with getting good sleep, eating well and drinking lots of water, my skin looks its best.

What Skincare Products Would You Recommend for Women in Their 30s?

Dr Mulrooney: Generally, women in their 30s start to notice the first signs of skin ageing, so with that in mind they tend to want to introduce active anti-ageing ingredients to their skincare regime such as;

Hyaluronic acid
This a sugar found naturally in the skin but begins to deplete from the age of 20 onwards. Hyaluronic acid attracts water which has a skin plumping and hydrating effect and helps stimulate the production of collagen. Vichy Mineral 25 serum is a good source of hyaluronic acid and can be applied morning and evening before applying moisturiser.

Vitamin C
This potent antioxidant helps protect the from free radicals and environmental damageand also brightens the skin. Use on clean skin in the morning to help bolster your skin defences and follow with moisturiser and SPF.

Retinol
This is a vitamin A derivative that has proven antiageing benefits on the skin. It helps to decongest and reduce the appearance of pores, fades pigmentation, stimulates the production of collagen and overall, improves skins texture and radiance. It’s available over the counter in many anti-ageing moisturising products. The downside of this ingredient is that it can be irritating therefore it is only suitable for use on normal or oily skin types as can trigger reactions in sensitive skin types. It’s worth noting that its use is contraindicated if pregnant or breastfeeding.

SPF
50+ daily. Opt for a broad spectrum, with maximum protection on a daily basis.

Louise: I am going to keep up my habits from my 20s, but now I’m 29, turning 30 this year I’m trying to start using retinol, which is known for its anti-aging qualities and ability to resurface the skin. You have to start slow with retinol and build up a tolerance so I’m adding to my moisturiser twice a week currently, once my skin gets used to it, I’ll start using it more frequently. I also think you can’t underestimate the power of the simple things – a great night’s sleep, a well balanced diet and some good nutrients.

What Causes Adult Acne in Our 20s and 30s?

Dr Mulrooney: Post adolescent acne can be triggered by a combination of factors including fluctuating hormone levels, excessive oil production, poor cleansing regimes, stress, lack of sleep, poor diet and excess alcohol, use of comedogenic products and in some cases underlying endocrine disorders such as polycystic ovaries.

Can Diet Be Linked to Breakouts?

Dr Mulrooney: Yes, indeed. I’m a firm believer in ‘you are what you eat’, therefore a poor diet reflects in skin and general health. A diet high in sugar, refined carbohydrates, excessive dairy and alcohol will drive inflammation in the skin, thereby worsening any pre-existing inflammatory skin problems such as acne and it also accelerates skin ageing. To feel and look well, aim to eat a balanced diet rich in fruit and veg, good quality protein, good fats and plenty of water. If you have a restricted diet, supplement the deficiencies before they become an issue. I’d recommend investing in a good quality supplement containing vitamin B2 and a range of vitamins and nutrients, such as Cleanmarine For Women (now known as Cleanmarine PeriodPlan).

Louise: I’ve been lucky to not experience too many bad skin breakouts in my 20s, nothing compared to when I was in my teens. But I know how it can affect confidence. Saying that, I have my own skin struggles, like pigmentation, dark circles, etc. I do find the quality of my skin is better when I’m eating a well-balanced diet. Cleanmarine For Women has been great for my skin too – it feels so healthy.