We all know it’s important to look after our skin in our 20’s and 30’s, but sometimes it can be hard to know where to start! I get a lot of questions about my skincare routine, and wanted to share some useful skincare advice with my followers, from an expert in this area.

I decided to interview Cosmetic Dermatologist Dr Katherine Mulrooney, who is a Medical Doctor specialising in the treatment of ageing skin at the renowned Dr Mulrooney Clinic in Dublin 4. I asked her all the most common questions I have received about looking after your skin in your 20’s and 30’s. I hope you find her advice useful – I certainly did! – Louise Cooney

1. How Do You Figure Out Your Skin Type?

Dr Mulrooney: The best way to figure out your skin type is using the ‘blotting paper method’ – simply press some blotting paper on clean skin ideally around midday, hold it up to the light and see how much oil has been absorbed on to the paper. 

Results correlate with the 5 main skin types;

1. Normal
2. Dry & dehydrated
3. Sensitive
4. Combination
5. Oily & acne prone

• No oil = dry & dehydrated, or sensitive skin
• Minimal oil = normal skin. 
• Noticeable oil on T-Zone = combination skin
• A lot of oil all over= oily skin

Knowing your skin type is key to choosing optimal skincare.

If your skin is combination or oily choose a foaming cleanser, lightweight and oil free moisturizers and SPFs. If on the other hand your skin is dry, dehydrated or sensitive, try a gentler milk or cream cleanser, nourishing moisturizer and SPFs. 

Louise: My skin type is combination. I tend to get oily around my T-zone so definitely try and keep oily products away from that area. An oil-free, lightweight SPF is key for me! Also when applying my make-up that’s generally the only area I’ll add powder to now, as it allows the rest of my skin to shine through and prevents that area from becoming oily throughout the day.

2. When Setting Up a Regular Skincare Routine in Your 20s, What Would You Recommend?

Dr Mulrooney: In your 20s a good morning and evening cleansing regime is the cornerstone to a good skincare Regime. In your 20s fluctuating hormones results in a lot of oil production, which in turn attracts dust and dirt from environment. Failure to remove it can cause congestion and may progress to outbreaks. Choose oil free SPFs that do not block the pores and be mindful that false tans can block pores too. 

Diet and lifestyle are key to a healthy mind and body and good choices reflect in your skin. Be sun smart, do not smoke, get 8 hrs good quality sleep every night, try to manage stress. Aim to eat a balanced diet with 2 litres of water a day. 

Exercise without make up to help detox the skin. 

Louise: I’ve always been interested in skincare products so have been trying everything and anything since my teens, at which point I was prone to breakouts. In my twenties I tried to refine what I was using, I try and cleanse morning and night, use moisturiser & SPF each day and hyaluronic acid when my skin feels a little dry. I also take two capsules of Cleanmarine For Women (now known as Cleanmarine PeriodPlan) every morning which contains Vitamin B2 and contributes to the maintenance of normal skin. I find when I’m taking them consistently along with getting good sleep, eating well and drinking lots of water, my skin looks its best. 

3. What Skincare Products Would You Recommend for Women in Their 30s?

Dr Mulrooney: Generally, women in their 30s start to notice the first signs of skin aging, so with that in mind they tend to want to introduce active anti-ageing ingredients in to their skincare regime such as;

• Hyaluronic acid – this a sugar found naturally in the skin but begins to deplete from the age of 25 years on. Hyaluronic acid attracts water which has a skin plumping and hydrating effect and helps stimulate the production of collagen. 
• Vichy Mineral 89 serum is a good source of hyaluronic acid and can be applied AM+PM before applying moisturizer. 
• Vitamin C – this is a potent antioxidant ant that helps protect the skin from free radicals and environmental damage and also brightens the skin. Use on clean skin in the morning time to help bolster your skin defences and follow with moisturizer and SPF. 
• Retinol – this is a Vitamin A derivative that has proven antiaging benefits on the skin, namely helps to decongest pores and reduces the appearance of pores, fades pigmentation, stimulates the production of collagen and overall improves skins texture and radiance. It is available over the counter in many anti-ageing moisturising products. The downside of this ingredient is that it can be irritating therefore it is only suitable for use on normal or oily skin types as can trigger reactions in sensitive skin types. It is worth noting that its use is contraindicated if pregnant or breastfeeding.
• SPF – 50+ daily. Opt for a broad spectrum, with maximum protection on a daily basis. 

Louise: I am going to keep up my habits from my twenties, but now I’m 29, turning 30 this year I’m trying to start using retinol, which is known for its anti-aging qualities and ability to resurface the skin. You have to start slow with retinol and build up a tolerance so I’m adding to my moisturiser twice a week currently, once my skin gets used to it, I’ll start using it more frequently. I also think you can’t underestimate the power of the simple things – a great nights’ sleep, a well-balanced diet and some good nutrients.

4. What Can Cause Adult Acne in Your 20s and 30s?

Dr Mulrooney: Post adolescent acne can be triggered by a combination of factors including fluctuating hormones levels, excessive oil production, poor cleansing regimes, stress, lack of sleep, poor diet and excess alcohol, use of comedogenic products and in some cases underlying endocrine disorders such as polycystic ovaries. 

5. Do You Have Any Skincare Tips When Coming Off the Pill?

Dr Mulrooney: The Pill tends to have a balancing effect on female skin and so stopping it can sometimes cause imbalances which can result in breakouts. This is more likely to happen if the patient has oily or acne prone skin prior to starting the Pill. Often it takes 3-6 months for skin problems to manifest after stopping the pill. I always recommend a good foaming cleanser AM+PM, a glycolic wash 1-2 nights/week and use of water-based oil free cosmetics to prevent blocking pores. Choose lightweight water-based cosmetics and SPFs. 

6. What’s Your Advice for Managing Rosacea?

Dr Mulrooney: Rosacea, is an inflammatory skin condition also known as the ‘Curse of the Celts’ as it affects pale skinned people. It is characterized by facial redness, broken blood vessels and inflammatory spots mostly affecting the butterfly area of the face. It is caused by excessive exposure to sun and worsened by extremes of temperatures, harsh climates. Alcohol, spicy food and stress often cause flares. 

Because the skin is already inflamed it is important to treat it using soothing, calming and natural skincare and strict use of SPF 50+. I recommenced SEAVITE Comfort Cleanser and Face Serum morning and evening and Skingredients SPF 50+ in the morning. If you are prone to rosacea try to avoid abrasive products or harsh anti-ageing ingredients such as retinol and acids. 

7. Can Your Diet Be Linked to Skin Breakouts?

Dr Mulrooney: Yes, indeed. I am a firm believer in ‘You are what you eat’, therefore a poor diet reflects in your skin and general health. A diet high in sugar, refined carbs, excessive dairy alcohol will drive inflammation in the skin thereby worsening any pre-existing inflammatory skin problems such as acne and it also accelerates skin ageing. 

To feel and look well, aim to eat a balanced diet rich in fruit and veg, good quality protein, good fats and plenty of water. If you have a restricted diet, supplement the deficiencies before they become an issue. I’d recommend investing in a good quality supplement containing Vitamin B2 and a range of vitamins and nutrients, such as Cleanmarine For Women.

Louise: I’ve been lucky to not experience too many bad skin breakouts in my 20’s, the odd spot here and there but nothing compared to when I was in my teens. I know how it can affect confidence. Saying that, I have my own skin struggles, like pigmentation, dark circles, etc. I do find the quality of my skin is better when I’m eating a well-balanced diet, so I do my best to keep it varied. Cleanmarine for Women has been great for my skin too – it feels so healthy.

8. Should We Be Using Retinol at a Certain Age/stage?

Dr Mulrooney: Yes if you do not have sensitive skin and are aged 30 years or older the use of retinol is a good start to slow down the skin ageing process. Use it at night time and use SPF 50+ in the morning. It is important to note retinol use is not recommended if you are trying to conceive, are pregnant or breastfeeding. If you are tolerating the over-the-counter retinol-based products very well you can consider talking to your dermatologist about stepping up to a prescription based cream. Retinol is a potentially irritating skin care ingredient so start gently at night time and gently increase over time. Ideal use is 3 nights per week, with the aim to increase to nightly if no negative side effects such as redness, irritation or flaking. In extreme cases prescription strength retinoids can cause a ‘retinoid dermatitis’ so tread carefully. It also can sensitise the skin to sunlight therefore use at night time and wear SPF 50+ daily, re applying 4 hourly.

9. Do You Have Any Recommendations on SPF for Everyday Use?

Dr Mulrooney: I recommended Skingredients Skin shield SPF 50+ daily (50+euros) for normal/dry skin and Vichy Capital Soleil UV-Age SPF (25 euros) for oily or combination skins.  

Louise: I also love the Skingredients Skin Shield (an Irish brand too) and Skinceuticals Mineral Radiance SPF 50 is really nice and lightweight if you have oily skin.